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No, it requires leaded fuel. In the US we used 100LL and referred to it as "Avgas".

You’re welcome!

If it starts with mags off there is a problem

Can I message you about your video?

I originally purchased it from the twos r us website.

Glad folks are still finding this helpful.

Thank you, and yes it is! The airport was primarily designed for glider use (soaring club of Houston). The super wide grass runway made it easy to land multiple gliders at once.

@@RAF92Warhawk Oh that's cool! Really hope to land with two or three gliders one day

Not too much vibration, flies great, low and slow!! Sometimes a little tough to get off the ground during those hot Texas summers.

@@RAF92Warhawk hi thanks very much for the reply I'll look for your model of plane with the 65hp ps have you ever see that model with sticks

@@mattwoody1089 I have not! I would probably like that though since the wheel feels a little like flying a school bus.

@@RAF92Warhawk I'm going to see a taylorcraft I think it's the same model this Saturday in south indiana I hope it's a nice one I'll let you know how I make out

@@mattwoody1089 Good luck, hope it's a nice one!

Thank you. I did not ever replace the bushing you described since my originals seem to be working fine. I would probably just replace the whole tie rod when the time comes.

@@RAF92Warhawk ah gotcha! For what it's worth I took the rear tie rod off the car last night and the bearing (not a bushing) on the frame side looks identical to the one pressed in the hub. I'm gonna try to press in a new one since I'm too cheap to buy a new tie rod lol 😅

The Soaring Club of Houston, in Waller TX.

@@RAF92Warhawk Thanks!

Thanks, this is at the soaring club of Houston. Unfortunately the plane was wrecked a few years after this was filmed in a ground incident. My dad flys a Sonex now, which he really enjoys.

@@RAF92Warhawk Ooooh, nooooo, that's so sad to hear! I used to fly gliders, it's probably my #1 passion (and I don't fly anything anymore). It's a money thing. Within a week, a Monerai-S w/3-cylinder Koenig is about to fly there. Maybe 2 weeks. That Sonex looks like a fun plane.

Most of it was filmed in Waller, TX taking off from SCOH

Heh, I haven't had a need to take that one apart yet, but I'll be sure to film it if I do.

@@RAF92Warhawk right on man!

Thanks! It's a great memory for sure.

Tie the tail! I’ve had them jump chocks. Tail tie down is best insurance. 1000 hours in all kinds of tail staggers. Most with no starter.

Dragers

@@justincase1575 I always tie my FlyBaby and chocks.

You're welcome!

Andytags I just used a basic cheap 2-jaw puller. I left all the bolts on the puller somewhat loose so that you can keep it straight in the beginning when you start increasing tension. Once everything is under a lot of tension it will keep itself straight.

thanks for the advice, i'll keep going at it. maybe i'll hit it with a torch and that will make it a bit easier. really helpful video by the way, thanks!

GoalieLife you’re welcome! Those are the end links from twos r us. I installed prothane bushings and new ball joints too at the time and it’s been clunk free ever since.

I got the TwosRUs bearings and replaced the passenger side one. Doing the driver's side tomorrow. Also got new sway bar end links, but my first attempt to remove the old ones didn't go well. What do you use to 'hold' the inner bolt in place so you can loosen the main bolt? It looks like an allen wrench, but I have a million allen wrenches, and none of them fit snug enough to stop it moving. Or maybe it's just stripped?

Oh, also a problem I had that apparently you didn't is when I got the new bearing in, the tie rod end did NOT want to fit around it. It took a lot of twisting and turned and forcing, and I finally had to give a few whacks with a rubber mallett.

GoalieLife sounds like it’s stripped. Is it long enough to get vice grips on it? That’s what I would do

GoalieLife also my car is a 93 turbo. I known 91’s came with different rear tie rods which might explain why your clearance is tighter

Just OEM Toyota for now. Not sure what was going on but my alternator is overcharging at high RPM(19V) and it was causing my ABS to kick in intermittently. On the run before this I plowed straight through some cones and into the grass when I wasn't expecting to lock up the brakes lol. I'm guessing its my voltage regulator. Can't wait to get new rear tires too, these are shot...

Luckily Local auto parts stores usually stock alternators for the 2 lol. I was wondering why you were experiencing brake lock up on a few of the turns.

J Dalzell pretty much impossible to find a good alternator for 93+ turbo unfortunately. All the auto parts one fail so easily it seems

its not hard to rebuild them yourself if you tackle that. cheaper too.

I know dude what happened.

I was definitely a little late on the counter steer lol. When it first stepped out I didn't think it was going to be too bad, but I quickly realized I was wrong. Hopefully next time I'll be a little more aggressive on the steering and save it.

RAF92Warhawk Yea, at least you didnt try and throw it to the side like alot of people do, then the tires grip again and you fling the other way. Thats where the mr2 gets its bad rep for tho.

I had similar problems with my car on two different occasions. The first occasion was simply from running too much negative camber in the rear and a bad alignment. The second time I encountered that was from a rear ball joint that failed prematurely. My suggestion to you is to jack up the rear of the car on jack stands and push and pull on different corners of the wheel to see if you can identify any slack coming from suspension parts. Next, use a breaker bar with sockets and tug on all the bolts. The idea is to not only check for tightness, but if there is a part with slack in it, it should be obvious when you pull on the bolt. That was how I identified one of my rear ball joints failed.

+RAF92Warhawk thanks for the reply. I just checked out my fronts and I did have a sway bar bushing holder way out if round from running over a standalone tire stop at a publix. That said, I fixed the issue and they have poly red bushings also, jacked up I can slide the sway bar left and right, should they be tighter? I'm thinking no because I greased it with the grease they came with. The rear seems so tight but Def can't be if the car is moving the rear end around. Bumps make the back end dance and long sweeping turns make it reverberate back and forth like the car is re-setting from the constant lateral forces over and over again....not so much on right long turns. Strangely, changing my wheels to factory changed it a little but they're not staggered when I replace the rear cause I only have front sizes now and my fac rears have a lump in one making it hard to diagnose...the non stagger makes the car feel really weird but the sway seems to disappear. ..lol. Was thinking of changing the remainder of poly bushings at control arm and strut rod...then re alignment. Strange that these issues come in TWO's...so to speak, my Aw11 GZE started doing the same thing but I've since changed all my bushings and had a loose front sway bar. Then. Seems to test drive okay until..... ....it overheated badly. Is near 100 degrees hear in GA...I hope my head is okay...was forced to drive it home...it went beyond the gauge fir a few min where I couldn't shut it off. sheesh.

Phoenix Mister Two As long as it didn't steam up and boil over, you should hopefully be ok. It can be tricky to find what exactly the problem is, but getting those bushings replaced would probably be my next step as well!

+RAF92Warhawk ....only started steaming last 1-3 minutes. I was shutting off while moving and letting it coast in 5th gear to keep water moving around. That kept it right below until the first crappy long light. I let it sit for two years, then r3 conditioned the heck outta it, and bushings but since all fluids were old and crappy including brake fluids and gasoline, I'd think the thermo is stuck. drive fine last night but wasn't 95 degrees with maximized humidity factor. I hate the summers here. On a lighter note, you're right about the rear ball joint. I had to pry the shit out of it but once it broke from its resting position, my pass. side can go up and down like a jack in the box. Never pryed hard enough last time and my driver side passes the test. They're new but was struck by a Camry on the side vent pass. side a week after all that... Go figure! Thanks for the advise buddy.

+Phoenix Mister Two ... Amateur mistake....Aw11 had the bubble so I only thought it had full level coolant. Sheesh...almost blew it, literally. It's a new head gasket and Engine rebuild only 15000 miles back, so, I'm guessing the new gasket and arp bolts helped quell the disaster. Do you think I could have hurt something else? I'd say it was past the red zone for at least a hot minute, no puns intended.

Thanks yo

It should be, take as long as you need to make sure it's going to go in straight and not crooked

Thanks again for the moral support, she is in!!! I'm gonna take the test drive after dinner. Cheers, and THANKS AGAIN.

+Jeremy J. Good Good work! You're welcome!

Hah it took a few tries to get good at it. Make sure your jaw puller or whatever you are using is not clamped down on the bearing!

Yeah man... thanks for the prompt response, I'm not sure what's up. I'm going to keep at it for a bit. FML :)

+Jeremy J. Good keep trying, you'll get it!